Baroque Revival – D&G AW12

I decided to focus on the revival of the Baroque theme, after investigating the Baroque movement when researching Luigi Laguerre’s work at Chatsworth House. I’ve been using tumblr for several years, and had seen Dolce and Gabbana’s AW12 Ready to Wear collection and had swooned terribly. I adore the mirrored prints and gold embroidery applied as the main detail to the black dresses. The cross stitch style print which is seen around Chatsworth house on chairs, couches and cushions is another example of how this technique can be used more broadly. The Dolce and Gabbana collection also used several pieces, including footwear, which showed glass, gilt gold cases as a design quirk. This attention to detail is true to its’ origins, when gold leaf would be applied by hand to the ceiling mouldings.

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This baroque style has been emulated several times within the last few years, for example by Beyoncé in her ‘Partition’ music video where she is seen lounging in a house strikingly similar to Chatsworth, and also where the fashion has filtered down to mid-range brands such as Criminal Damage, and handmade Etsy sellers like RetroFolie, a couture corsetiere.

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This baroque style revival has been typically mixed with ultra-modern fabrics, such as airtex sports fabric and printed neoprene. High street shops, for example Topshop, New Look and River Island created statement American Football Jerseys from printed Airtex, which created a sheer look to the garments, creating a striking gap between the historic, demure style depicted in the fresco and the current trend for mesh and sheer panelling.

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Fig 1 & 3. – Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show: Complete Collection – Style.com. 2014. Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show: Complete Collection – Style.com. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/dolce-gabbana/collection. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

This collection had for several years shown me how intricate and beautiful the revival of a movement could be, introducing a modern twist to an older style of pattern design.

Fig 2. – Piper, Ffion (2014) Gilt Throne [Photograph]

This image encapsulated the gilt filigree and rich, velvet textures typically found in a historical house like Chatsworth. I aimed to capture the decadence

Fig 4. – Criminal Damage | Criminal Damage T-Shirt With Regal Baroque Print Co-Ord at ASOS. 2014. Criminal Damage | Criminal Damage T-Shirt With Regal Baroque Print Co-Ord at ASOS. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.asos.com/Criminal-Damage/Criminal-Damage-T-Shirt-With-Regal-Baroque-Print-Co-Ord/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=4390905&cid=17651&sh=0&pge=0&pgesize=36&sort=-1&clr=Gold&totalstyles=34&gridsize=3. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

The modern print-on-print look is very on-trend, showing the flexibility of the print and the use of the American styling. By using these specific fabrics the overall look is very fashionable, but still affordable on the high street.

Fig 5. – Beyoncé – Partition (Explicit Video) – YouTube. 2014. Beyoncé – Partition (Explicit Video) – YouTube. [ONLINE] Available at:http://youtu.be/pZ12_E5R3qc. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Shows the inaccessibility to the decadent lifestyle – Beyonce being so world famous and ‘above’ the general population proves how utterly exquisite and overly luxurious this lifestyle is.

Fig 6. – The Swing Corset Rococo Historical underbust corset by RetroFolie. 2014.The Swing Corset Rococo Historical underbust corset by RetroFolie. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/181658857/the-swing-corset-rococo-historical?ref=shop_home_active_17. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

This underbust corset showed me that the Baroque style can be used alongside modern printed fabrics, whilst staying in keeping with a traditional corset shape.

Other References –

Alois Riegl, 2010. The Origins of Baroque Art in Rome (Texts & Documents). 0 Edition. Getty Research Institute.

I looked into this book for the references to major, world famous pieces of artwork, which showed me where the influences of the artwork came from and the religious iconography the frescos tended to developed from.

A Companion to Renaissance and Baroque Art – Babette Bohn, James M. Saslow – Google Books. 2014. A Companion to Renaissance and Baroque Art – Babette Bohn, James M. Saslow – Google Books. [ONLINE] Available at: http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=IjE8vLREjmYC&printsec=frontcover&dq=baroque&hl=en&sa=X&ei=aNZJVLCuJ8iu7Ab3-4HgBg&ved=0CEUQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=baroque&f=false. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Whilst looking up references to use within my blog, I found this book referencing the time period of the Baroque era, and whether it was a period of change or comfort in the style. This made me think about how fast the time period was changing, developments in science and mechanics were seen as incredible and unusual, this made things like machine stitching possible – was this referenced in D&G’s AW12 collection?

360 Link . 2014. 360 Link . [ONLINE] Available at:http://zr7av6yc4v.search.serialssolutions.com/?ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_enc=info%3Aofi%2Fenc%3AUTF-8&rfr_id=info:sid/summon.serialssolutions.com&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.genre=article&rft.atitle=Baroque+Inclinations&rft.jtitle=Cultural+Studies+Review&rft.au=Lisa+McDonald&rft.date=2011-04-01&rft.pub=University+of+Technology%2C+Sydney&rft.issn=1446-8123&rft.volume=14&rft.externalDBID=DOA&rft.externalDocID=oai_doaj_org_article_4379e00619b4468c87283d8f67a71f1c¶mdict=en-US. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Works referencing baroque themes and style – working with the ideology of Baroque and bringing a modern take to the table by referencing modern day events – WWII etc.

360 Link . 2014. 360 Link . [ONLINE] Available at:http://zr7av6yc4v.search.serialssolutions.com/?ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_enc=info%3Aofi%2Fenc%3AUTF-8&rfr_id=info:sid/summon.serialssolutions.com&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.genre=article&rft.atitle=Baroque+Inclinations&rft.jtitle=Cultural+Studies+Review&rft.au=Lisa+McDonald&rft.date=2011-04-01&rft.pub=University+of+Technology%2C+Sydney&rft.issn=1446-8123&rft.volume=14&rft.externalDBID=DOA&rft.externalDocID=oai_doaj_org_article_4379e00619b4468c87283d8f67a71f1c¶mdict=en-US. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Looking into the specificities of the origins of Baroque and the southern german style. By using this we can look into the history of the german style and architecture of the time and find links within the culture and fashion.

D&G invades the catwalk in black and red baroque | The Times. 2014. D&G invades the catwalk in black and red baroque | The Times. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/life/fashion/theshows/article4213652.ece. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

The Times reported on D&G’s most recent Baroque inspired collection, which gave me an insight into the designers ideas and influences behind the collection, relating to womens’ sexuality and empowerment.

Baroque Revival – D&G AW12

Luigi Laguerre – The Life of Julius Caesar

On the University trip to Chatsworth House, we each chose an object – a sculpture, piece of clothing, painting etc – to base a poster off. I chose the ceiling fresco in the Painted Hall at Chatsworth House, as it represented everything I imagine when I think of Duchesses, royalty and the rich.

Luigi Laguerre - The Life of Julius Caesar (1688 - 1699)
Luigi Laguerre – The Life of Julius Caesar (1688 – 1699)

I spent the whole trip admiring the gilt frames, ceiling roses and mouldings and gold leaf detail in the house. The gates into the house being especially intricate, caught my eye and made me think of the baroque period. Walking into the house, the Painted Hall is one of the first rooms the visitors are welcomed into, the sheer decadence of the hall is impressive and overwhelming. That feeling of luxury and excess is what I wanted to capture within this post.

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Baroque Music | About the “Baroque” Period | Music of the Baroque. 2014.Baroque Music | About the “Baroque” Period | Music of the Baroque. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.baroque.org/baroque/whatis.shtml#whatis. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Chatsworth House. 2014. Chatsworth House. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.cheshirenow.co.uk/chatsworth_house.html. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Baroque – art at the V&A, review – Telegraph. 2014. Baroque – art at the V&A, review – Telegraph. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.telegraph.co.uk/journalists/richard-dorment/5115306/Baroque-art-at-the-VandA-review.html. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Key monuments of the Baroque by Adams, Laurie. 2014. Key monuments of the Baroque by Adams, Laurie. [ONLINE] Available at:http://capitadiscovery.co.uk/dmu/items/624134?query=baroque+painting&resultsUri=items%3Fquery%3Dbaroque%2Bpainting. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

17th and 18th century art: baroque painting, sculpture, architecture by Held, Julius S. (Julius Samuel), 1905-, Posner, Donald. 2014. 17th and 18th century art: baroque painting, sculpture, architecture by Held, Julius S. (Julius Samuel), 1905-, Posner, Donald. [ONLINE] Available at:http://capitadiscovery.co.uk/dmu/items/129781?query=baroque+painting&resultsUri=items%3Fquery%3Dbaroque%2Bpainting. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Baroque – Victoria and Albert Museum. 2014. Baroque – Victoria and Albert Museum. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/b/baroque/. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

De Montfort University Library Services: Single Sign On to Library Resources. 2014. De Montfort University Library Services: Single Sign On to Library Resources. [ONLINE] Available at:http://search.proquest.com/docview/253100785/5BFCFE1E74104FA1PQ/9?accountid=10472. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

De Montfort University Library Services: Single Sign On to Library Resources. 2014. De Montfort University Library Services: Single Sign On to Library Resources. [ONLINE] Available at:http://search.proquest.com/docview/1542680956/fulltext/DE847A7FA92F493DPQ/2?accountid=10472. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Great Painters of Baroque – YouTube. 2014. Great Painters of Baroque – YouTube. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJzFtj83VGw. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Birth of Venus Corset Historical overbust corset by by RetroFolie. 2014.Birth of Venus Corset Historical overbust corset by by RetroFolie. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/184224822/birth-of-venus-corset-historical?ref=shop_home_active_10. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Dolce & Gabbana – Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Ready-To-Wear – MFW (Vogue.com UK). 2014. Dolce & Gabbana – Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Ready-To-Wear – MFW (Vogue.com UK). [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2012/ready-to-wear/dolce-and-gabbana. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

Luigi Laguerre – The Life of Julius Caesar

An Intro to the Author

My name is Ffion, I’m a 22 year old Contour Fashion student and to put it simply – I adore lingerie.

I started a fashion degree in South Wales, and was 2 years into the degree when I realised all I ever did was figure out how to change a womenswear design brief into a contour design brief. All my work was related to lingerie, it dug its little fingers into the groundwork of my research and never let go. I designed a shirt with a mandarin collar whose structure was based around victorian corsetry, I wrote whole essays on edwardian corsetry, sewed triangle bras at home and developed my own patterns, and ran a blog dedicated to vintage lingerie.

Through my partner, I discovered the contour course at De Montfort. I spent hours researching the university, poring over the graduate collection images and creeping on Karolina Laskowska’s posts on The Lingerie Addict blog, and feverishly crossing my fingers and toes hoping I could transfer.

When I finally got confirmation in September of my approved place on the Contour course, I cried. I got the phone call I’d been waiting weeks for, and was told they’d be delighted to have me. I feel (as cliché as it sounds) as though I’d started the first day of the rest of my life, and I’m still excited to be learning about this constantly evolving and seemingly inaccessible art form.

This blog marks the beginning of my journey, and how over the next 3 years I’ll develop as a designer, and a lover of lingerie.

An Intro to the Author